Peuma Hue Estancia

The furry of the Northern Patagonian winds took hold last night. As I write I am listening to gale force winds from our cozy estancia with a warm cup of coffee . Thank God Clark and I got in two fabulous days of skiing on Friday and Saturday. The guys at our ski rental said yesterday was the second best day on the slopes this winter. The skies were Carolina blue and you could see the rugged peaks of the Andes for hundreds of miles. Lake Gutierrez, the lake our estancia sits on was also visible from the slopes. The area reminds me of Tahoe, except more spectacular. Yesterday, we skiied the mountain from one side to the other. We came back to the estancia for late afternoon horseback riding with the resident Horse Whisperer, Chris. She is an honest to God Horse Whisperer. We marveled at her spell over the horses. When we finished riding, we all walked our horses to the corral where about 10 horses were gathered. Chris positioned herself among the horses and whispered something that only they could hear and all ten horses slowly turned facing in the same direction. It was like a benediction after our ride! This estancia is absolutely gorgeous, nestled on 500 acres in the Nahuel Huapi National Park. The cyprus log main lodge where we are staying in the ultimate ranch home with huge great room made cozy by overstuffed furniture and a big stone firepace. Last night we were treated to a famous Northern Patagonian ¨barbeque¨complete with beef, ribs, sausage (three kinds), and lamb with all the trimmings! We have really hit it off with Evelyn, the owner, who has joined us for two of our three dinners. She, Clark and I sat by the fire talking over after-dinner drinks until 11pm about the seasons of life, about our teens and fifties, and about the kind of energy one feels in sacred places like this area of the world. She is an incredibly neat lady! The entire staff is wonderful and Marcelo, her business partner, is equally terrific and been driving us to the slopes each day. Marcelo´s wife gave me an incredible massage last night on the floor of my bedroom while Andean music played in the background! Visions of early retirement!

We awoke several times last night to the howling winds and heavy rains. It was a no brainer for both of us to conclude that a third day of skiing was not in the cards! Clark is still sleeping under the wonderfully warm down comforter.

Peuma Hue Estancia reminds us so much of the Four Lazy F Ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyoming where Hilary worked for two summers as a cabin girl with her dear friend Katie McClay. Wherever you look, the landscape is breathtaking -the calm beauty of the emerald green waters of Lake Gutierrez, the rolling hills of an ancient mountain fold that soothe souls with harmony and balance, the Continental Divide valley floor (2500 ft above sea level) dividing waters into the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, and the steep, rugged granite walls of the D´Agostini peak, filling the area with energy only sacred places provide. We will come back to this place in our minds for many years to come.