La Vacacion de Carlos y Tito

Charlie & Clark Witzleben are in South America for a fantastic 4 week adventure. Stay tuned for posts and photos!

Friday, August 18, 2006

EXPLORA....and the art of travel

Explora is an enterprise founded to encourage a new attitude towards travel, which widens one's world and deepens understanding about self. This one month adventure shared between father and son was simply a once in a lifetime explora experience.....that will be forever in our memories and hearts.

Each stop in our South American journey was an adventure unto itself. The incredibly wide variety of discovery, climate, geography, vegetation, wildlife, people, customs and food are mindboggling! We will be forever grateful to Jim Adams of Travel Experts in Raleigh and Rebecca Segarra of Ladatco Tours in Miami who partnered with us to plan, arrange and execute a flawless one month adventure. They even ordered perfect weather in each locale! They are consummate professionals in explora and you can bet we will use them again and again in our continuing quest to explore remote parts of the world. Muchas gracias Jim and Rebecca.

In our massive world, explora provides extraordinary opportunities to meet marvelous people and to become fast friends through shared adventures. At the end of our month it is wonderful to be able to put faces, personalities and human spirits with each venue....... our extraordinarily bright guide Ramiro in Cuzco and Machu Picchu; the six members of the Pickunka family from California at Reserva Amazonica; Marcella, our gracious hostess at Explora Lodge in Torres del Paine, Patagonia; our dear Aussie friends Andy and Sheree who we met on the Chile-Argentina lake crossing and with whom we became inseperable in Argentina...skiing together at Catedral in Bariloche and doing the tango and eatting 36 ounce steaks in Buenos Aires; Evelyn Hoter and Marcelo, two of the finest and dearest human beings you can ever know who have truly created in Peuma Hue Estancia a place of dreams, Chris the horse whisperer whose spell over the horses at Peuma Hue was magical; Carlos Barros our 33 year old guide at Iguazu who is mastering English through night classes after leading explorations all day and whose energy, warmth and spirit were enlivening; Evelyn whose love of Rio was transferred to us in six hours; Hugo and Cristobal our Amazon river boat guides whose vast knowledge was shared with 32 guests through their fluency in four languages; and finally our Amazon amours Michelle, Sandro and Patrizia whose infectious good humors and adventuresome spirits were magnetic. Quite simply, we all became afficionados of our new world and of each other! Our lives are richer for taking new paths with each of them.

For both of us discovery took on vast new meanings...........

of the natural beauty around us, of the fragility of the environment, of self, of son, of father, of family lore, of new customs, of vast and subtle differences in the people of South America;

of good fortune and its broad definitions depending on your perspective and circumstances;

of the remote.....and how it reminds us of all that is important and unknown to us in the world, and in ourselves and in those closest to us;

of a new world that is still possible for the discerning traveler in the remote;

of exhuberant places to feel free and take time just to be;

of places with poetic works that mark moments of splendor in the rite of travel;

that adventures and experiences are things in life that have permanence and can never be taken away from you;

that widening understanding is far more important than overburdening the mind with information;

that it is better to travel with an illusion than to arrive;

that exploration is always a simultaneous journey inwards and outwards....it responds to a profound and joyful desire of leisure;

that every day life gives you what you need if you just open you eyes, ears, mind and heart.

Charlie & Clark Witzleben, alias Carlos & Tito
July 19 - August 17, 2006


Carlos & Tito bidding adios to South America
at meeting of Amazon and Rio Negro Rivers


Tito at meeting of rivers



TOP TO BOTTOM - Our new friends Sandro and Patrizia, architects from Siena, Italy at meeting of the rivers

Michelle McCollin (Slippery Rock University Professor)who caught the BIG parana

Meeting of Amazon & Rio Negro Rivers

The Mighty Amazon

The Amazon lives up to its billing as the world's mightiest river....in shear water volume....the world's largest (not longest). Its water fluctuations are amazing ........dropping 5 centimeters a day in this dry winter season. The river has dropped over 30 feet since June and will be fully replentished in the wet summer season (November thru February). The temperatures were surprisingly pleasant, (especially when the boat and canoes were moving) considering that we were 30 miles south of the Equator. And we never got one mosquito bite during our three days in the Amazon! The winter season is definitely the time to visit this part of the world. The Amazon Clipper Premium (in service for 1 1/2 years) is a wonderful river boat 106 feet in length with a beam of 30 feet. It's spacious 16 outside cabins were very comfortable with private baths, airconditioning and wonderful windows for seeing extraordinary scenery and wildlife. The most awesome sight about 6 am on the last morning was seeing over 1000 egrets feeding in a creek.....unfortuantely the cabin airconditioning and outside humidity created such condensation on my camera lense that this picture is one that only lives in my mind (Clark was sleeping)! It was a scene from National Geographic! But the pictures below will give you the same sense of awe that we experienced on each of our excursions into the rivers and their tibutaries to see the jungle, animals, flood plains, birds, reptiles, fish, and the local human inhabitants. Every turn in river and jungle was an experience unto itself. On our list of top three things to see were monkeys, parana and snakes....and boy, did we get our wishes. The monkeys were plentiful swinging through the shoreline trees to our great delight. The parana were also plentiful and hungry! What fish wouldn't be if the guys on the other end of the line were using filet mignon for bait? Tito caught 10 and Carlos caught 5....and also got bit between the thumb and forefinger while trying to get the hook out of one's mouth - felt like a razor blade and bled like a stab wound! No thanks to swimming in the river for Carlos.....although Tito was jumping and swimming in the river only two hours before the fishing trip! We double checked to see that he still has all his parts! Parana typically don't bother humans in the water unless they are bleeding, but one of us decided not to prove that point! Seeing the river people was most heartening...going about their simple everyday lives with an innocence that comes from such a remote existence.....the lady washing her dishes in the river, the young boy bathing /swimming, the entreprenurial young men with the simple manioc production facility on the river's edge, the old fishermen in their simple canoes out for the early morning catch, the jungle guide with his machete clearing our new path and his clever ability to make things from palms and trees (see Mr. Liberty's picture below), and Maria, the medicine women who met us in the jungle to show us the multitude of jungle trees, fruits, and ants that provide medicinal relief and cures. She gave Clark a bite of angiroba (a hard fruit) that cures sore throats and his was gone that evening! Oh..... and the Amazon skies.......brillant anytime of day and providing wonderful reflections in the river. The Amazon Clipper was a delightful floating home with a terrific staff led by our hosts and guides Hugo and Cristobal. The food was DELICIOUS and several other guests (32 in total) became quick and delightful friends (over caipirenhas)......especially Michelle McCollin, a professor at Slippery Rock University and Sandro Senni and Patrizia Monaco, architects from Siena, Italy. We have a solid invitation to be their guests for Il Palio! The last morning of the cruise we saw the long awaited meeting of the waters of the Amazon and the Rio Negro.....the spot on earth with the greatest volume of water in one location! It is amazing to see the vast currents of the black Rio Negro and the muddy Amazon run side by side without mingling their differently colored waters! Our time in the Amazon concluded with a tour of Manaus, a city of 2 million that achieved its prominence during the rubber boom in the late 1800's/early 1900's. The famous and beautiful Teatro Amazonas (Manaus Opera House) lived up to its billing and provided the venue for our swan song to South America! We boarded the first of our three flights and 16 hours of travel back to Raleigh-Durham and arrived just before noon to temperatures in the 70s......a far cry from the heatwave of the high 90s and 100s experienced during our month of winter in the Southern Hemisphere! Mom and Casey were delighted to see us in one piece after such life changing adventures! Sleeping in our own beds again did have great appeal!

Thursday, August 17, 2006


The canoes were boarded on the sides
for six excursions into the Amazon and
Rio Negro Rivers


Outstanding meals served in the ship's
lovely dining room


Amazon Clipper Premium - our home
on the Amazon for three days


Morning haze on the Amazon


Native fisherman


Boy out for an early swimming or bath


Lady washing pans


Mr. Liberty - crown made of palms and
torch made of brazil nut and tar tree


Carlos and Tito in typical stilt house


Native making manioc - a common
staple on Brazilan dinner tables - made
from a root like yuca


"Rambo" clearing the way with his machete
for our Amazon rainforest hike


Clark swinging from a Brazil nut
tree vine


Carlos and Tito on Amazon rainforest hike


Clark getting the milky substance from
the rubber tree that turns to rubber when
it dries


Tarzan trying to keep up with Tito!


Clark swimming in the Amazon


Clark jumping into the Amazon from
third level of the Amazon Clipper






The Amazon Skies


Boa constrictor - in tree just above our boat


One of the ten parana Clark caught


The big catch of the day - black parana


Mamma and baby monkey


Snail eatting bird


Monkey


Sunrise on the Rio Negro


Black vulture and turkey vulture


Afternoon canoe excursion on Rio Negro
and Amazon Rivers


Amazon Flood Plains


Wet flood plain forest


Tree showing water level in June - Amazon
drops an average of 5 centimeters a day during the
winter dry period


Yes, we have some bananas!
Manaus market


Inside Manaus Opera House


Manaus Customs House


Manaus Opera House


Manaus favela and stilt houses on the
Rio Negro River


Manaus harbor and floating docks

Sunday, August 13, 2006

Manaus and Amazon Cruise

Tomorrow we start the final leg of our one month adventure in South America. We fly from Rio to Manaus, Brazil to board our Amazon Clipper for our three day cruise on the Amazon and Rio Negro Rivers. The Amazon Clipper is a typical riverboat unique in style, which offers the best small-ship cruising in the Amazon. Large enough to offer spacious cabins and small enough to dock in remote spots and cruise to hidden locations due to its shallow three foot draft. We will take canoe trips in small creeks to see life on the flooded plains, rubber trees, lakes with giant water lilies, watch birds, visit the local inhabitants and walk into the rainforest. We´ll get to try piranha fishing and nocturnal canoe trips for alligator flashing. It promises to be an adventuresome culmination to an extraordinary journey. As the Amazon Clipper is not equipped with internet, this will be our last posting until we return to North Carolina on Thursday at which time we will post our Amazon photos and concluding comments about this incredible trip. We both hate to see it end but we are looking forward to returning to our family and friends who have been wonderful to keep up with our adventures through this blog. We are grateful for your wonderful and humerous comments that have helped us stay connected to the Northern Hemisphere! Adios from stupendous South America!


Butterfly


Trumpet flower


The three musketeers


Toucan




Peacock in Iguazu